I am not fasting for Ramadan again this year. It didn't even come up as a topic of debate with Hajj and Hajja - I think they understand because we are not Muslim and not looking to become Muslim. People here and there ask if we are fasting - mostly taxi and bus drivers - because this and other questions about religion are not considered particularly invasive here, however the discussion usually ends after we say "no, I'm Christian".
I think I mentioned this last year, but one of the hardest things about Ramadan is being respectful to others who are fasting. Most teachers at the center know we are not fasting but I feel bad eating and drinking in front of or around them, and even though it is always very hot outside (most days are between 90 and 108 degrees!) I can't just pull out a bottle of water and drink in public. Besides drinking water in private though, I've ended up fasting most days between breakfast at home and iftar! Since most places to eat are closed during our lunch break, I either a) just go to a nearby hole-in-the-wall shop and buy a Dannon yogurt drink or b) skip eating entirely.
Hajj and Hajja do their nightly meals a little differently than Fadwa and Aziz last year - rather than having one big meal as iftar, they have iftar at 7:45 PM which is usually lighter (we eat dates and dried figs, milwi and pastries, shebakia, harira or other types of soup, and drink fresh juice and tea) and then later eat dinner at midnight (usually meat, some vegetables, a small salad of minced tomatoes/cucumbers/onions, olives, and fruit for dessert). This has been a little difficult since dinner results in us being awake until 1 or 2 AM, and then we have to wake up around 9 AM for classes (or earlier if we still have homework!). It seems like every few days we skip dinner and just fall asleep because we're so tired!
I've gone out with my classmates and speaking partners to see Sahat al-Hadim, Hamriyya, and Sirij Souani at night after iftar, when the hustle and bustle returns to the city, but Hajj and Hajja seem to stay put rather than make visits. Their family in the area comes to visit late at night sometimes but that's about it. It's a good environment for trying to get work done, but less of an opportunity to use Arabic.
My host family from last year and I reconnected soon after I got back to Meknes and I was able to eat iftar with them last week! They are hosting two girls from a different program at the new AALIM center now. It was really nice to see them all again and enjoy some sugary juice as well as Fadwa's version of mac & cheese with La Vache Qui Rit (Laughing Cow cheese). They still remember "easy peasy" in English, as well as when I mixed up the words for "knife" and "brain" (resulting in me asking for the brain at dinner one night).
I also ate iftar with my speaking partner Lubna last night. I took the bus to Tulal, another neighborhood in Meknes, and she took me to her home in the new part of the area. It was beautiful - they have a building to themselves with three stories! Right now only her and her mom are there due to other family members traveling. Her mom gave me a beautiful napkin that she embroidered herself in a traditional style, and we ate a huge and delicious meal to break their fast.
On another note, Fourth of July here was wonderful! Our Capstone cohort went out the night before together to Hotel Rif where we celebrated with a selection of alcohol. The day itself was spent with our friends and teachers at the pool at Hotel Transatlantic, which sits on a hill above the Old City (beautiful view). After swimming and Ultimate Frisbee for hours, we ate iftar together in the evening. Anna and I left afterwards to spend some quality time with Hajj and Hajja before dinner. No fireworks, but still a good day spent with great people.
Sorry for the long post - I meant to post this sooner but we started classes last week and things were busy. I'll try to post once or twice a week from here on out!